USAC Racing Forum
April 20, 2024, 01:33:49 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: SMF - Just Installed!
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2
  Send this topic  |  Print  
Author Topic: PRO 2000 setup???????  (Read 16523 times)
Griffin Brown Racing
Feature Winner
***
Posts: 116



« on: August 21, 2009, 09:57:53 PM »

Nervo pro 2000,senior honda,your thought?Huh?

Scaled with 70 lb. driver, lf 75.5,lr 91.0, rf 41.5,rr 63.5 (cross 48.8%)  (43% front)
Ride height set to book.
Ratchet hub.
Nervo says this is to much weight on the left rear!!! But I cant seem to get away from it.
Kokomo pretty fast but in my opinion it should not slide the rear off the corner,in order to go real fast?Huh?  7.5 laps

                              Thanks!!!    Scott Brown  Griffin Brown
Logged

Scott Brown

--------------------sponsors----------------------------------
Baker Racing Engines
Orr Motorsports (for all your motorsports needs)
Klotz Lubricants
Covington Coney's
Moore @ Associates
Brute Power Pipes ---www.brutepipes.com
One Stop Auto
Whitley Welding & Fabricating
Swartz
Guest
« Reply #1 on: August 21, 2009, 10:20:19 PM »

To start with, quit trying to scale the car with the driver in it. It just annoys the driver and the results aren't accurate. Weigh the car empty and get back to me. If the car is loose in the middle of the corner out drop the panhard bar or move the RR wheel in. I liked to set our rear track width at 33 5/8" and leave it. If it transitions the corner ok but is tight off you have too much stagger. If it's snapping loose in the middle of the straight you have waaaayy too much. Try 2 5/8". If all that is ok could be a shock problem messing up weight transfer. 

Logged
Griffin Brown Racing
Feature Winner
***
Posts: 116



« Reply #2 on: August 21, 2009, 11:10:30 PM »

No driver lf 52.0, lr 65.0, rf 34.5, rr 52.5 (cross 48.7%)

Setting on garage floor, ah ha!!!!!!!  RR shock leaking on floor!!!!!!!!!!!

                                           Thanks!!!!!!!!
Logged

Scott Brown

--------------------sponsors----------------------------------
Baker Racing Engines
Orr Motorsports (for all your motorsports needs)
Klotz Lubricants
Covington Coney's
Moore @ Associates
Brute Power Pipes ---www.brutepipes.com
One Stop Auto
Whitley Welding & Fabricating
Swartz
Guest
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2009, 12:09:54 AM »

If one shock has problems assume they all do. Take them off, cycle them back an forth. They should slide in and out with steady tension. No binding or jumping. Listen to the housing. There should be no "gurgling" sound of air bubbles. If they don't pass band them together in a small box, Slide it under the workbench. Call ARS. Give them a credit card number. Otherwise, rebuild them and check them every couple of races. In this case, a leaky shock on the RR should tighten the car on corner exit. You haven"t found the problem yet. You should be able to get equal weights across the front and have about 12 lbs more on the inside rear from the outside or less.
Logged
Griffin Brown Racing
Feature Winner
***
Posts: 116



« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2009, 10:44:45 AM »

OK!!!! Thank you!!!

I have 13 across the rear,how do I get the front even without changing ride height,I will mess with it!!!
Gen 2 shocks,can someone rebuild and get them back to me in a week,we race Kokomo next Sat.

                                                       Thanks!!!! Grin Cheesy Smiley Wink Grin Cheesy Wink Grin   
Logged

Scott Brown

--------------------sponsors----------------------------------
Baker Racing Engines
Orr Motorsports (for all your motorsports needs)
Klotz Lubricants
Covington Coney's
Moore @ Associates
Brute Power Pipes ---www.brutepipes.com
One Stop Auto
Whitley Welding & Fabricating
ssssmoke
Guest
« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2009, 10:50:12 AM »

check supan brothers. they are in north carolina though.
Logged
d4hall
Veteran
**
Posts: 55



WWW
« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2009, 05:55:00 PM »

Larry can usually turn them around quick if parts in stock. Most are most of the time.

Dale Hall
Logged

Dale Hall
Columbus, Ohio
BuckeyeQMDad
Feature Winner
***
Posts: 100



« Reply #7 on: August 22, 2009, 09:02:53 PM »

Who's Larry?

HAAAA! j/k

Might also be an idea to talk w/ Jeff Wren from Mac O Chee, he runs Pro 2000 chassis and loves then, but then again both his drivers are Jr. Honda. I guess it couldn't hurt!

I've been told: in general no real changes from Jr to Sr except gear, age and overall speed.

Good Luck!
Logged

Tony Crandall
BQMRA Indoor Rookie Director
Swartz
Guest
« Reply #8 on: August 23, 2009, 02:47:27 AM »

OK!!!! Thank you!!!

I have 13 across the rear,how do I get the front even without changing ride height,I will mess with it!!!
Gen 2 shocks,can someone rebuild and get them back to me in a week,we race Kokomo next Sat.

                                                       Thanks!!!! Grin Cheesy Smiley Wink Grin Cheesy Wink Grin   

Ride height is not much of a consideration on these cars as the tortional strenghth is low. The needed triangulation of the chassis would go about through the sternum of the driver. Since implanting steel tubes in their chest makes them squirm, you have to deal with this other stuff. Ride heights just tell you how much the chassis is twisting. Put a little in the RF,take a little off of the other three. Just mess with it on the scales untill you get a feel for what a turn into or out of a spring does. I have to tell you, though, stagger problems can't be fixed with weight jacking. All you can do is make the car too loose or tight and ask the driver to adjust untill you can get the right size tire on the car. Get the weights, shocks, springs right then check the ride heights. that will give you a good "quick check" point to compare to. Dale is right. Larry is the man if you want to rebuild those shocks.
Logged
Griffin Brown Racing
Feature Winner
***
Posts: 116



« Reply #9 on: August 28, 2009, 05:19:57 AM »

Having trouble getting weights even across the front,without making the weights across the rear to far apart!!!! I got he front within 6 lbs. but the rear was 25 lbs. different now.
I had to put a bunch of turns in the right front & that took weight off the right rear.
Do I NEED TO MOVE SOME LEAD OR JUST KEEP MESSING?HuhHuhHuhHuh Swartz?HuhHuh

Now 2 of my scales broke!!!  $%%%^^&&$$@@%%^^
Off to buy somemore tommorrow!

                                    Thanks!!!  Scott 

                                 
Logged

Scott Brown

--------------------sponsors----------------------------------
Baker Racing Engines
Orr Motorsports (for all your motorsports needs)
Klotz Lubricants
Covington Coney's
Moore @ Associates
Brute Power Pipes ---www.brutepipes.com
One Stop Auto
Whitley Welding & Fabricating
ogracing
Rookie
*
Posts: 35


« Reply #10 on: August 28, 2009, 10:26:21 AM »

why would you want to scale your car without the driver in it does it go around the track without the driver in it mr griffin scale your car with the driver in it then you know what the true cross is
Logged
pointtwofive
Veteran
**
Posts: 64


« Reply #11 on: August 28, 2009, 11:06:12 AM »

The argument of scaling with or without the driver has gone on for many years. I would recommend scaling the car both ways and compare the results. I have found on my cars that the results are so close that it makes more sense to leave the driver out. That way you don't need your driver to scale the car or worry about them moving and wiggeling around effecting your readings. Just my .25 cents.

Steve
Logged
Swartz
Guest
« Reply #12 on: August 28, 2009, 01:45:16 PM »

Having trouble getting weights even across the front,without making the weights across the rear to far apart!!!! I got he front within 6 lbs. but the rear was 25 lbs. different now.
I had to put a bunch of turns in the right front & that took weight off the right rear.
Do I NEED TO MOVE SOME LEAD OR JUST KEEP MESSING?HuhHuhHuhHuh Swartz?HuhHuh

Now 2 of my scales broke!!!  $%%%^^&&$$@@%%^^
Off to buy somemore tommorrow!

                                    Thanks!!!  Scott 

Sounds to me like the springs are wrong. What class are you running and what springs do you have on it?
Oops, just read the start of the thread. Sr. Honda. You should have LF. 125  RF. 115  LR. 135  RR. 115 but we always ran a LF. 110. Not a NC though.

                                 
« Last Edit: August 28, 2009, 01:50:31 PM by Swartz » Logged
ssssmoke
Guest
« Reply #13 on: August 28, 2009, 02:52:51 PM »

try 125 on lr and 115 on the other 3.
Logged
RBurns17
Feature Winner
***
Posts: 229


« Reply #14 on: August 30, 2009, 02:05:15 PM »

When we initially scaled our car at the start of the season we found enough objects to stick in the cockpit to match his weight. (mostly because he lives out of town.) But we also scaled it without a driver after calibrating it to the baseline we were using. So we knew what the without driver number was. When we test and hit a good setup, we throw it on the scales and record the number with the driver and then have him hop out and record the numbers that correspond to that without him in the car. That way if there's ever a time we need to get it back to certain numbers and he's not able to make it to the garage we can get it done.

But, a without driver set up isn't going to translate the exact same to another car if the driver weighs a different amount. So say our "without driver" cross is x% but when our 70 lbs. driver climbs in it's going to change to z% or our "with driver" number. Well if we give another team the x% "without driver" number and they set their car up to that, when their 120 lbs driver climbs in, it's probably not going to be z% like ours come out to.

So the without driver numbers are useless to share with another team unless they have a driver of similar weight.

Also, the way the way the driver sits in the car will adjust the numbers also. So our "without driver" number will have different "with driver" numbers depending on whether he's upright, leaned slightly, or leaned a lot.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2009, 12:38:49 AM by RBurns17 » Logged
Pages: [1] 2
  Send this topic  |  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.18 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!