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Author Topic: coilovers?  (Read 13750 times)
lilyelloweagle
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« on: November 24, 2011, 12:51:06 PM »

so the coilovers that im running now came with car. idk what they are or what spring but the car is stiff. i was wondering what is a good coilover to run. i have 33 in eagle with a red rookie driver. im going to run what i have till he gets use to it. im just asking for ideas for coilovers and springs fot the fulture
thanks
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Teampanther
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« Reply #1 on: November 25, 2011, 01:17:15 PM »

Tanners are a great starter shocks then you can move up to Advance Shocks that are right at the top of performance. I will double check my notes about the spring rates.
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If it ain't broke stop trying to fix it!!!!!
lilyelloweagle
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« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2011, 08:39:07 AM »

Thanks I just found out what shocks I have they are trimble motorsportsshovks and how are afcos? I get discount on those from work
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Swartz
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« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2011, 06:47:19 PM »

If the car is "stiff" either something is bent, miss alinged or the springs are too heavy. Take the shocks off and move everything through it travel to see if anything sticks or rubs. While you have the shocks off, run them through their travel. See if they operate smoothly. Also listen as the piston moves. Iff you hear air, there is a dead spot or the shaft travels without resistance for a bit they need fluid and maybe a rebuild. Also check for leaking fluis around the shaft seal. I wouldn't bother with a rookie "setup". Hopefully you guys will move to Jr. Honda shortly. So, for Jr. Honda I would start with #3 shocks on all 4 corners on that car. A 105# LF spring 135# LR spring and 115# RF and RR springs. Aside from that, how much do you know about setting up these cars? Do you know how to scale and square them? Set caster, camber and toe?
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Teampanther
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« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2011, 10:05:31 PM »

AFCO are the new top name in quarter midget shocks and are starting to grow in popularity. They are better than the Tanners and cheaper than the Advance shocks.
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If it ain't broke stop trying to fix it!!!!!
lilyelloweagle
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« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2011, 10:29:35 PM »

thanks everyone for the help everything is free the springs are the problem their extremly stiff. i havent checked the rate yet but car has new rods and shocks are fine idk what valves are n them but the shocks are working smoothly i had them on the shock dyno. i had sprint guy help me do the first setup we wanted it tight. thanks for the info on the shocks and springs because i was lost on where to start on those. and what do you mean by number 3 shock? i may get afcos do to we sell them at work.. i would just love to find someone who was running them to ask them a few questons about them.
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Swartz
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« Reply #6 on: November 27, 2011, 12:05:59 AM »

The higher the shock number the stiffer it is 'valved'.  Shocks determine how fast weight is transferred from corner to corner in a car, not how much weight is transferred.  Heavier valved shocks are typically required for heavier and faster cars. s you move on you will need split valved, (easy up, hold down) shocks. External adjustable shocks are great but expensive. I wouldn't spend a bunc of money on shocks or anything else if you have the right ones untill you get past novice. The driver has to be able to drive a good line before any of that matters, but, if you have #5 shocks and 145# springs on the car you will fight problems that you won't be able to fix.
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gtracer
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« Reply #7 on: November 28, 2011, 11:28:05 AM »

Are the Trimble air do the have fill valves on them?
We run Advance shocks on most of our cars but ran the trimble air on the Lt 160
and they worked well for novice and Jr honda they should be fine
unless the track is really rough.
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lilyelloweagle
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« Reply #8 on: November 28, 2011, 05:52:31 PM »

No their just the standard trimble.. they came with the car so I don't know to much about them
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Swartz
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« Reply #9 on: November 28, 2011, 07:33:07 PM »

On the end of the shock usualy with the shaft in it will be a number. Trimbles run #1 through #6 and they have a 3#-5# hold down shock. It's a big deal. Check them. They can be revalved if needed.
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gtracer
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« Reply #10 on: November 28, 2011, 08:36:30 PM »

Red shafts or chrome?
is the valving stamped on the bottom?
In novice the driver matters more than anything good luck
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lilyelloweagle
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« Reply #11 on: November 28, 2011, 10:25:40 PM »

ok the shocks have red shafts
here are the numbers off the shocks
lf 3  rf 5
lr 6 rr 5

here are the spring rates
lf 135  rf 120
lr 140  rr 120

well thats what we measured the could be off a little
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gtracer
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« Reply #12 on: November 29, 2011, 11:45:43 AM »

There older trimbles, do the push and pull at the same rate? I would replace the #6 with a #3, if I could find one, and drop the lf to about 100#  if you want to use what you have I would put the #6 in the rf the #3 in the lf and the 5s across the back
for the right side if you are working to fix a tight car raise the rf spring 5-10lbs
keep in mind a lot of cars that spin out off the corner are tight not loose and the driver puts so much wheel in it they spin out. in Novice the driver matters a lot so dont chase the chassis all over when its the driver changing lines. good luck
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