USAC Racing Forum

General Chat => Point .25 => Topic started by: Magic Man on October 30, 2009, 04:17:27 PM



Title: reconditioned mychron
Post by: Magic Man on October 30, 2009, 04:17:27 PM
I have seen someone on here in the past who repairs and sells mychrons.  I would like to know who it is if anyone knows!  I need a mychron!


Title: Re: reconditioned mychron
Post by: Griffin Brown Racing on October 30, 2009, 05:53:59 PM
Dale Hall
WWW.QMSTUFF.COM


Title: Re: reconditioned mychron
Post by: d4hall on October 30, 2009, 07:54:38 PM
That would be me. I have reconditioned Mychron 3's which includes the tach and the IR Receiver(Lap Pickup) for $200.00. I also have New Mychron 4's for $325.00. If you have any further questions fell free to contact me at either dale@hallelectronics.com or 614-402-6227 .

Dale Hall
Columbus, Ohio
Buckeye Indoor Director


Title: Re: reconditioned mychron
Post by: Magic Man on November 01, 2009, 12:22:46 AM
What is the difference of the 3 and 4?  Does the $200 for the 3 include the RPM lead with clip? 


Title: Re: reconditioned mychron
Post by: RBurns17 on November 01, 2009, 05:08:29 AM
I've never personally used the 3. I've seen them, and looked through one and all i can say is that if you have the extra money, go for the 4. We actually wheeled and dealed for ours and it's been the best investment we have made. But I know a lot of guys who don't really know how to work it, and thus waste the extra features. So if you want some extra data to help tell you what the problem with the car is, be ready to read up on all the features and how to use them effectively. For example, with the four, I can go back through laps and look at the RPM tenth by tenth in graph form. If I see a spike followed by a sudden drop, that tells me to look and see if the car is getting loose on exit, which is slipping the wheels, and then bogging the motor down when the car gets back straight. That's if the spike is at the right time on the track. We have a good idea of where each point on the graph is on the track. If you have a camera and are a little decent with video editing on a computer, you can rig up a counter that starts each lap when the car crosses the plain of the beacon, so you can go back later and see exactly where the car was when the abnormal curve occurred. Just little things like that. I would just advise to read up on the two.


Title: Re: reconditioned mychron
Post by: RBurns17 on November 01, 2009, 05:14:14 AM
I'd also like to add the main difference is the ability to have more of your data right away. Without having to use the data key to put it on a computer. There's a lot of graphs and histograms that let you bring it up right after a run.

We usually do a run, pull the driver in and look over some of the data and make quick changes and send him back out. This is really useful for a day when the track temp or conditions are changing rapidly.


Title: Re: reconditioned mychron
Post by: LLR on November 01, 2009, 11:33:56 AM
just the fact of not having to remember to turn the 3 on is worth it.


Title: Re: reconditioned mychron
Post by: RBurns17 on November 01, 2009, 03:49:20 PM
Oh yea. How could I forget that. I had never worried about turning our mychron on. I was surprised when someone told me forgetting to turn on the 3 would ruin data collecting for the entire race.


Title: Re: reconditioned mychron
Post by: d4hall on November 02, 2009, 02:24:02 PM
I don't sell the RPM pickup and clip with the three. All it is, is a piece of basic wire, the clip is usually only nesesary on a stocker. For a honda it is better to "T" tap into the coil wire (Kill switch wire)

Dale


Title: Re: reconditioned mychron
Post by: CrewChief6 on November 02, 2009, 02:51:28 PM
What the best way to connect the Mychron to get data? spark plug cap or direct into wiring?


Title: Re: reconditioned mychron
Post by: d4hall on November 02, 2009, 04:02:41 PM
Honda's - "Direct Wire" AKA T-tap into kill switch wire. That will give you the most consistent pulse.

MSD system - "Direct Wire" to Orange wire coming out of control box.

Stocker - Wrap wire on Spark plug wire. I have had the best luck putting 3 or 4 wraps around as close to the cap as possible and use a plastic cable tie to secure it. From there do not route the wire along with the plug wire, keep the wires separated as best you can.

Dale Hall